G E T T I N G TO & A R O U N D E P I R U S558 offers daily flights between Athens and Ioannina. Olympic also flies about once a day from Athens to Aktion, just outside Preveza on the southernmost coast of Epirus; from here you can get a bus to Igoumenitsou and Ioannina or even to the island of Lefkada, which is connected by a viaduct to the mainland. By Boat Igoumenitsou, on the coast opposite Corfu, is the point of entry to northwestern Greece for many people. In summer, ferries connect hourly to Corfu (trip time 1� hr., depending on the ship) and less frequently to Kefalonia, Ithaka, and Paxi. A hydrofoil service also runs twice daily during high season, between Corfu and Igoumenitsou (allow about a half-hour). Numerous ferries and ships that put into Igoumenitsou go to and from ports in Italyncona, Bari, Brindisi, and Venice; some of these connect with Patras or Piraeus in Greece or with even more distant ports such as Iraklion, Crete, or Cesme, Turkey. In high season a ferry connects Astakosn the Ionian coast south of Preveza and north of Messolonghio the offshore islands of Ithaka and Kefalonia. The schedules are too complex to list here. For information in advance, go to www. gtp.gr or www.ferries.gr. When in Igoumenitsou and wanting to make plans to move on, contact Thalassa Travel at 20 Ethniki Antistasseos (& 26650/22-001). By Bus The KTEL line (& 210/512-5954 in Athens, or 26510/26-211 in Ioannina) enters northwestern Greece from points such as Athens (71� hr.) or Thessaloniki (8 hr.). By Car From Athens, there are two main routes. One takes the inland route north via Livadia, Lamia, Karditsa, Trikkala, Kalambaka, and Ioannina. The second runs via Corinth and then along the southern coast of the Gulf of Corinth to Rio; from there, take the new bridge to Anti-Rio, and then drive north via Messolonghi, Agrinio, and Arta to Ioannina. Alternatively, head to the Ionian coast after Messolonghi, and go up to Igoumenitsou via Astakos, Preveza, and Parga. The preferred route from Thessaloniki goes by Veria west to Kozani and Konitsa and then south to Ioannina. (Sections of a new expressway are now open.) From western 15 Europe, you can drive through the former Yugoslavia (now independent nations)�either along the Dalmatian Coast or via the inland expresswaynd enter Northern Greece at Florina, from where you head south to Kastoria and Ioannina.HIGHLIGHTS OF WESTERN GREECE: EPIRUS & IOANNINABy Bus With enough time, you can see most of Western Greece by bus (add time for side trips); given the many mountainous roads and curves, you might prefer to let others do the driving. KTEL provides bus links between most towns in Western Greece. Buses leave for Athens and points north, northwest, and northeast (Igoumenitsou, Metsovo, Konitsa, Kastoria, and Thessaloniki) from Ioannina main bus terminal at 4 Zosimadon (& 26510/26-211). A smaller bus terminal in Ioannina, at 19 Vizaniou (& 26510/25014), handles travel to the south (Parga, Arta, Preveza, Astakos, Messolonghi, and Patras). By Car Having a car is probably the best way to experience Western Greece at its fullest. Trips take much longer than a map might suggest due to the many mountain roads. (Mopeds and motorcycles are not advised except for the most experienced.) Western Greece doesn offer the choice in car rentals found in more touristed parts of Greece. We think Budget in Ioannina, at 109 Dodonis (& 26510/43-901), is the best agency to deal with. This family affair is run by owner Angela Tsamatos, her son Stelios, and genial manager Paul Angelis. Don expect to haggle during high seasonhere are a limited number of vehicles for the influx of tourists.GETTING AROUND